Bana-Rahe-Ras

Exploring Varanasi: Navigating Spirituality, Pollution, and Climate Change in India's Sacred City

Welcome to Kaashi

Kaashi, often hailed as the "city of death" in Indian mythology, holds a profound significance for those seeking spiritual solace and liberation. Returning home for a much needed break after my graduation in the United Kingdom, visiting Varanasi to rekindle with my spirituality and extend gratitude to the almighty for all the blessings that had been bestowed upon me was on top of my bucket list. 

This was my first venture in the state of Uttar Pradesh and a travel companion who knew their ways around the city was of utmost importance. My partner in crime and best friend, my dad, was the obvious choice. My father, a seasoned traveler and spiritually awakened individual, had once interned in Varanasi during his youth. Returning to familiar ground, he found himself confronted with a city that felt simultaneously familiar and foreign.

Sankat Mochan Hanuman Mandir

The Intersection of Vibrancy and Degradation

Bustling with excitement as our train entered the Varanasi Junction rail station, we set out to navigate and document through the maze-like streets. Three hours into our exploration it became evident to me that Varanasi's cultural vibrancy was juxtaposed against the alarming signs of pollution and decay. While the infectious and high vibrational energy enclosed me in a layer of calm and peace, I could not get myself to look past the stark reality of environmental degradation and climate change looming over this ancient city.

Gen-Z Saadhu

The first thing that struck me was the pervasive pollution caused by the overwhelming number of vehicles clogging the narrow roads. Traffic jams were a constant occurrence, “rozz marrah ki pareshaani“ (daily chaos) as labelled by our Uber driver. Intensifying the already problematic traffic issues was the reckless removal of side mirrors—a desperate measure taken by drivers to navigate the chaotic streets. Returning from a country with strict traffic policies, the acceptance of no outside rear view mirrors (ORVM) by the traffic police was hilarious yet concerning.

The charming streets that hold so much significance to the Hindu population of our country, bore the telltale signs of gutka consumption, with red-painted roads serving as a stark reminder of the city's struggle with addiction and its environmental consequences.

Cultural Rites vs. Environmental Concerns

Varanasi's status as a sacred site for Hindu funeral rites brings another dimension to its environmental challenges. Varanasi is the only city in India where pyres burn 24 hours a day, seven days a week. According to Hindu mythology, it is believed that a human's soul attains moksha  (liberation from eternal cycle of life and death) when cremated here. Hence, the Manikarnika ghats in Varanasi bear witness to at least 80-100 pyres a day. While these rituals hold deep spiritual significance, the plumes of smoke released detoriate further the quality of air in Varanasi. According to research, the air quality in Varanasi has degraded by 70% since 2019.

Last Rites of the departed | Manikarnika Ghat

Antyesti: Final auspicious ceremony

Furthermore, the tradition of asthi visarjan, or the ceremonial scattering of ashes in the river, adds to the pollution burden, degrading the water quality of the sacred Ganges. Upon interviewing the Doms (caretakers of the cremation grounds), another complication that came to light was their dependence on cremations to sustain their livelihoods. 

Dom: Caretaker of the Ghatts

The Economic Impact of Climate Change

Beyond its spiritual allure, Varanasi relies heavily on religious tourism as a cornerstone of its economy. Visiting the city in the otherwise cold month of January, I was welcomed by hot and rather humid weather conditions. The city's vulnerability to climate change poses a significant threat to its tourism infrastructure and livelihoods. On top of that, extreme weather events and recurrent flooding (intensified by global warming), may down the line disrupt the flow of visitors and hence jeopardise the local economy. 

Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh ghat

In my opinion, we as travellers, writers, and global citizens, must confront the realities of climate change and advocate for sustainable solutions. Much like many places across the globe, the parity between spiritual sanctity and economic stability hangs in the balance as Varanasi grapples with the challenges of climate change. We must pledge to tread lightly upon this sacred ground, to nurture and protect it for generations yet unborn.

Reflections on Varanasi: A Beacon of Humanity

The Crescent Moon Shaped city

As I stood amidst the ancient ghats, enveloped in the ethereal haze of incense and the gentle whispers of the Ganges, I couldn't help but feel a profound sense of responsibility weighing heavily on my heart. For Varanasi is not merely a city of stone and mortar; it is a living, breathing embodiment of centuries-old traditions and timeless wisdom. It is a place where the sacred meets the mundane, where the ephemeral dance of life and death unfolds against the backdrop of eternity. Yet, amidst the timeless beauty of the Ganga Aarti, fear spoke softly. It spoke of the urgent need to preserve the sanctity of Kaashi, for in the heart of Varanasi lies not just the soul of India, but the soul of humanity itself—a beacon of light shining bright amidst the darkness, guiding us home.

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